Two Days In Kot Ghar

22 02 2012

The Kot-ghar is a place in Mallaj V.D.C of Parbat district where the whole V.D.C gathers to celebrate some days of Dashain. People from all the 9 wards inside the V.D.C and from every walk of life get together here every year. The Kot-ghar faces south to Beni Bazaar and the Kaligandaki River. There is a temple in the ground situated in the lowest part of the Kot which is surrounded by Beni-Nangi road. In small hill attached with the ground there are places where people sit to see the events happening in the ground. There are volleyball and basketball court and an open theatre in the ground. In addition, there are some wooden poles near the temple. In the upper part of the Kot area, there are three temples of Shiva, Ganesh and Saraswoti. Exactlty to the right of these temples when viewed from the ground, there is a Reinforced Concrete building used by the committee of the Kot-ghar.

It was a day after I reached my village. I was out in the village with an evening walk with my friends. We were on the way to the Kot-ghar and the road leading to the kot-ghar from my village was muddy after several days of continuous rainfall had recently stopped. One of my friends was cracking jokes rest of us were laughing with the freedom we males usually get in our village. We had our sisters and other female members working to make arrangements for Dashain. We reached the Kot-ghar with tears dropping from my eyes due to wild laughter. Usually, when I laugh continuously for long time tears drop out of my eyes they are tears of joy, I think.

The kot-ghar was full of children, most of them belonging to ‘low caste’. Their appearance was revealing their status. Very few people were wearing new clothes. Even if others too were wearing, I could not recognize their recently bought clothes by their fathers and/or uncles; most of them who are Arab returnees. May be the dirt made them look older. There were some old aged people with smoking pipes unbothered by the law which bans smoking in public places. I could see very few young people including my friends. Most of the young people from this VDC are in Arab countries, Korea, Japan and some in America for employment. The Kot-ghar looked astonishingly attractive. People were putting makeup on her for event that was going to be organized tommorrow. More than thousand people were predicted to visit the place. So the event managing committee was working hard to impress the visiting audience.

The next day people started gathering around the ground, the hill and on the roof of the building. Many of the middle class people who were formerly the middle lower class were there with there newly brought clothes and more importantly their imported camera and mobile sets. There were groups of musician making music from the panchebaja simultaneously with the music system that played “simple simple kanchi ko dimple parne gala”. Gradually the crowd had covered the Kot-ghar. People were clattering within their circle, especially the young girls with umbrellas over their heads.

Everyone in the kot-ghar seemed happy. Many of them were pretending to be happy. Many were having their time of their lives except few goats and he-buffalos. Some of them had just come to this earth. They had been brought their for the event, which the crowd was waiting for. They were tethered and dyed red with abir, the color of victory.

The event started. The panche baja started getting louder and the music player was switched off. The crowd roared, from the crowd came a man with a yellow t-shirt and a mark made around his neck. He had paid Rs.51000 to get the mark placed around his neck by bidding the highest sum in the auction .The mark was the permit to behead the biggest he-buffalo. More than 3 thousand eyes were watching him without a blink as he separated the head of the buffalo and the crowd roared again. This time much louder than before. The whole village was proud of this young man who had just returned from South Korea. His relatives and friends were chanting his and their victory over the powerless buffalo. The crowd was enjoying the moment. But there were few people who were not enjoying it.

I was among them. I had to see the following event when rest of the goats, buffaloes and pigeons were beheaded within few minutes. The area around the temple in the ground was flooded with red blood. People were busy celebrating the death of powerless animals and collecting carcass.

However I was feeling pity for those poor people. They had enough wealth but by mind they were the poorest. They celebrated at time when their fellow creatures were dying. Those poor animals couldn’t beg for their life and the poor humans couldn’t understand that even the animals have life. Those poor creatures, I was among them.




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